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Forum ID #: 122  Re:  Draft and weight questions  1-11-05  Does anyone know the draft and weight of the earlier semi-v hulls?  I'm interested in acquiring one, but my lift is in fairly shallow water.  Gcparkin

Forum ID #: 123  Re:  Draft and weight questions  1-11-05  The draft of the 20' Riviera with the semi-v and flat aft should be 20 to 22.5 inches with a dry weight of 2,200 to 2,650 lbs. depending on the year and type of engine used.  Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 124  Re:  1985 Elite Craft Riviera 12-25-04  Here is a picture of my boat it is a little to cold for a water shot (-5 below) Ha Ha Thanks for all info Merry Christmas  Pat Sullivan  Salem WI

Forum ID #: 125  Re:  1985 Elite Craft Riviera 12-25-04  That looks like a factory trailer, is it one or a remake?  If you need anymore information just let me know.  By the way your boat looks like it is in beautiful condition. The bottom copper gelcoat looks like new and so does the wood grain finish.  Beautiful Boat, Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 126  Re:  1985 Elite Craft Riviera 2-4-05  Yes the trailer is the original one. I see you put the info for the spotlight up. I have another question the motor+trans are painted all white. Was this original? When I got it there was 100hrs on it I only needed to clean it up, adjust the carb, reset the timing, put in a new battery, and change the alt. (I put in a GM 1 wire 60amp alt) I have a little bit of gel coat to fix and it will be good to go.  Pat Sullivan  Salem WI

Forum ID #: 127  Re:  1985 Elite Craft Riviera 2-10-05  There were no engines and transmissions that came from the factory all white for 1985.  Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 128  Re:  Another question on Elite Crafts  1-25-05  A few years ago I saw one with a white hull- was this  painted or did any come from the factory without the wood-grain? just curious. thanks.  Gcparkin

Forum ID #: 129  Re:  Another question on Elite Crafts  1-25-05  Did you see an Elite Craft with an all white hull or just some parts of the hull white?  Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 130  Re:  Another question on Elite Crafts  1-25-05  the boat was on a trailer and was definitely an elite craft, but all of the sides and decks which normally are wood-grain were white. I was not close enough to tell if it was gel or paint. I was just curious if the factory did any this way.  Gcparkin

Forum ID #: 131  Re:  Another question on Elite Crafts  1-26-05  I would love to see some pictures of the boat. As far as I know there was never any Elite Crafts sent from the factory with an all white hull. There could have been an issue of damage to the boat in later years and after it was repaired they covered the hull in white gel coat or some other type.  Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 132  Re:  Another question on Elite Crafts  1-26-05  I don't have any pictures of the boat in question.  Gcparkin

Forum ID #: 133  Re: 1986 Riviera 3-2-05  Hi I am looking at a members 20' Riv- very interested and think we will have a deal soon- love the looks since I own 4 mahogany boats, it will be nice to have a splash n go boat instead of the soaking process each yr...A couple of questions- are there particular areas that typically have issues?  I.E.- Mahogany Century's had transom frame issues- glass Century's had stringer issues typically.  The boat has only 308 hrs on it and there are a few scratches but nothing major- the rear waterline splash rail has some discoloring but I am hoping it is the clear coat and can be buffed out. The fuel gauge is inoperable at this time but I bet it is corrosion on the gauge or the sending unit, same for the rudder indicator.  Thanks for any info you may have.  John

Forum ID #: 134  Re: 1986 Riviera 3-3-05    You found my favorite subject.  The 1986 was the second production year out of Orlando Florida, all the previous years (1978-1983)were produced out of Michigan.  The boat may or may not have the deck stripes that are actually white gel coat in the deck as well as the boot stripe being the same.  Those are some of the possible differences, for instance on my 1985 Riviera I removed all of the original deck and boot striping (tape) so that it can be replaced and look as new.  They moved to white gelcoat in the deck and hull in later years to use as the stripes but both the tape and white gelcoat lend beautiful results.  I also found with my 1985 Riviera that some areas that have been neglected over the years or weathered can be buffed (as you mentioned) or sometimes in more extreme situations light wet-sanding with a buffing follow up may yield far more impressive results.  Most other things, in my opinion should be typical of most fiberglass boats but I will be more than happy to help if you should need any.  Good luck with the purchase,  Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 135  Re: 1986 Riviera 3-4-05  Thank you for getting back to me- I am thinking that since the fuel gauge, rudder indicator are not working, it is a corrosion issue. The Iva-light is sticky also, but my Arabian has the same light so no problem- I have been into it before to clean and lube it.  I agree- 1500 w/d paper  and a smooth buff job should bring it back.  Is the clear coat actually a gelcoat or a 2 part urethane paint?  The stripes are actually tape- I have had LOTS of practice painting the stripes on the decks of my mahogany boats so tape will be a nice change of pace for me :)  Ok- now all I have to do is get to Conn to pick it up!!  Are there owners manuals available for the boat? And I promise, last question-what type of bottom is on the 86 model- I have seen a V bottom, and a modified V with steps outboard the V...Just curious- I am assuming the steps were to help get the boat up so it doesn't squat in the rear?  Take Care John

Forum ID #: 136  Re: 1986 Riviera 3-21-05  The clear coat is actually gelcoat.  I will send you a copy of my manual.  The 1986 model has the semi-V with the flat aft bottom.  The modified V with the steps close to the waterline outside the V were used I believe to give a greater riding surface.  Hope this helps and please feel free to contact me anytime about the subject.  Eric Smith

Forum ID #: 137  Re: Radio installation 6-6-05  The radio in my boat had crashed before I bought the boat.  It had been shaken to death.  The retaining nuts around the knobs had been its only support.  I am installing a new radio (I don't want a hole in the dash) but am struggling as to how to brace the back of the radio.  The only exposed bolt is the lead to the antenna, which is probably not a good anchor for the radio.  Have you seen any other logical support mechanism for the radio.  The new radio has a sleeve that provides more support, but I would like to add an additional brace if possible.  Wally

Forum ID #: 138  Re: Radio installation 6-9-05  The best way to support the radio is to do what we call a secondary bond to the bottom of the deck with a piece of wood that has been coated with resin. First select a piece of plywood, approximately 3"x10"x1/2" that is big enough to screw into. Remember to first sand the under deck surface with a medium sandpaper, then wipe with acetone and after it is dry put ample resin on under deck and then while it is still wet place your 3"x10"x1/2" resin coated piece of plywood into to the wet resin. You should support the resin treated plywood with a support to keep pressure on it until the resin has set up and the block of wood is firmly bonded to the bottom of the deck. After the cure time, 24 hrs to be sure, then secure the support bar or bars from the radio support or sleeve using rubber grommets at every metal contact point to reduce the potential for vibration. Again remember you do this to the piece of wood only after it has fully dried. You can do this process under the deck where ever you need to be able to attach something. Hope this helps. Dave

Forum ID #: 139  Question re: Elite Craft 7-8-05  I own a 1990 Elite Craft Riviera and a 1986 Elite Craft Elite Ski. I'm happy to see there is an owner's club and a place to ask questions.  Re: 1986 Elite Craft - The boat's clear coat has a few hairline cracks, I was wondering what is the best way to repair this?  Re: Rudder Instruments - On both boats, they do not work. Any idea what could be causing this or how to fix? Thanks Steve

Forum ID #: 140  Question re: Elite Craft 7-15-05  The hair line cracks in a gel coat finish most often can be wet sanded out and rebuffed with glass polishing compound. It depends how deep they go. Because there is a surface of 20 mils of clear gel over the wood graining process you can sand a fair amount before damaging the wood grain. Most can be corrected by this method, however if the hair line cracks go very deep then your only choice is to regel with a tinted clear gel. You may still see minute cracks if you get right up next to the clear gel but it is definitely close to original. The rudder indicators on the dash go bad usually for one of three reasons. One, the ground on the back of the instrument is corroded or broken or two, the sending unit on top of the rudder port is bad or broken, or three the meter is corroded on the inside. Remember in a boat all of these electrical contacts are around moisture all the time so corrosion is normal. The first thing to do is clean all contacts and reattach them to their original contacts and cover with a water proof grease. If that does not correct the problem then look at replacing the sending unit or meter.  Dave

Forum ID #: 141  membership 7-16-05  I have two Elite Crafts, a 90 ski and a 90 Riviera. I recently purchased the Riviera and will most likely sell the 90 ski. These are truly great boats! Were going to take the Riviera to the Lake Tahoe Wooden Boat show in August. Should be fun. Interested in a membership. Could you give me some info on it?  Dave Pullin 

Forum ID #: 145  Lifting eye 8-23-05  Am considering a purchase of Elite Craft 1988. I store my boat in a boathouse when not in use. On inboard/outboards I use a front and rear strap that goes under the boat to lift it out of the water. On an inboard the strap at the rear may damage the shaft and or rudder. I note that the boat has fore and aft eyes that I assume are for lifting and storing the boat. Is it proper  to store and lift boat by the lifting eyes? If not do you have any suggestions for alternative lifting and storage? Can you give me any hints about what to look for in deciding to purchase that is particular to Elite Craft. I have owned a Century Resorter and a Chris Craft Capri and enjoyed the comfortable ride on these boats. Can you make  comparison as to the difference in the ride of  a wood hull and the Elite Craft fiberglass?

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